Travel
Todayville Travel: Part 3 of Gerry’s Yukon Road Trip

Last in a 3-part series on a Yukon road trip – Mt. Logan – Kluane National Park
by Gerry Feehan
“You’re not going to believe this. Sian called again. It’s just cleared up at base camp and the radar report looks good. It’s a go if you’re still willing.”
I’ve been a geography nut since I was a kid. My noggin is full of useless facts. In pre-metric days I memorized details of the world’s highest and lowest: Mount Everest 29,028 feet, Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench 35,814 feet. As a proud Canadian I knew that our highest peak, Mt. Logan in Yukon’s Kluane National Park, topped out at 19,850 feet above sea level. To my chagrin, North America’s highest reach, 20,320-foot-high Mt McKinley, was located across the border in Alaska. As usual, America had outdone us, even at something as Canadian as rock, snow and ice.
I’ve always wanted to see Mt. Logan. We were nearing the end of our six-week-long Yukon road-trip. The highway would take us through Kluane National Park, so I made inquiries. A Whitehorse friend told me it was possible to organize a flight from Kluane Lake into Logan base camp. The camp is on a glacier in the heart of the St. Elias Mountains, a vast roadless, uninhabitable wilderness.
Sian Williams and her partner Lance Goodwin operate Icefield Discovery near Haines Junction, Yukon on beautiful Kluane Lake. I called early in June to book a day-trip. Sian (pronounced “Shan” – a Welsh name chosen by her bush-pilot father Andy) told me that due to spring’s late arrival they’d been unable to access the camp located on Kaskawulsh Glacier beneath Mt. Logan. She added that the long-term forecast was poor. I was crest-fallen. We were booked to leave the North by ferry on June 21, the summer solstice.
We arrived in Kluane National Park with only a two-day window of opportunity. I checked in with Lance. He wasn’t optimistic. Sian had flown into the camp a week earlier and been stuck there, socked in by a brutal snowstorm. Kluane’s mountainous terrain means that all access is by air. And this region is too dangerous and unforgiving to rely solely on instruments so visual flight rules are always in force. No see, no fly.
We sat put, waiting for the mountain weather gods to calm. Our first night, camped on the shore of frigid Kluane Lake, we enjoyed a repast of fresh Arctic Grayling (supplied courtesy of my fly rod). Meters away a grizzly bear, terrifying claws in close-up view, combed the beach in search of its own fishy catch. The next day we spent cautiously hiking an alpine ridge, bear aware. Fortunately we shared the pristine view with only mountain sheep, moose and caribou.
As we set off she pointed to a gaping cobalt scar part way up the snowfield, “Watch out for the crevasse.” We set course accordingly.

A grizzly set of claws
The morning arrived when we needed to make a move for the coast. The solstice was nigh. I phoned Lance and he said, “I spoke to Sian on the satellite phone. It’s still a whiteout up there. Sorry.” We reluctantly packed camp and were on our way south when Lance rang back, “You’re not going to believe this. Sian called again. It’s just cleared up at base camp and the radar report looks good. It’s a go if you’re still willing.”
We high-tailed it for the Kluane airstrip where we met Donjek, the pilot. He was born here, named after the Donjek River that flows into Kluane (naturally his father was also a bush pilot). As we took off, the plane’s shrinking shadow followed us across the emerald beauty of Kluane Lake. Soon the lake gave way to a snaking, silt-laden river. We gained elevation and the dirty toe of Kaskawulsh glacier appeared. Then all was ice; white curving fingers spilling from mountain valleys. Dark lines of ground rock defined the course of each icy highway. Then all became snow, the line between earth and sky indiscernible.

The airplane shadows Kluane’s emerald waters

Kaskawulsh Glacier
We flew over the camp. Sian waved from below, a tiny solitary figure surrounded by white glacial enormity. Mt Logan, draped in sun and cloud, stood imperiously in the background. Donjek lowered the skis of the Helio-Courier prop plane and we skidded to a smooth stop.

A landing on skis

Sian had spent nearly a week alone on the glacier
We climbed from the cockpit and walked through virgin snow to where Sian was standing in a deep pit, shovel in hand. It looked like she was cutting blocks for an igloo. Actually she was retrieving the prior season’s camp from burial under three meters of winter snow pack. (That’s how glaciers grow – year upon year of accumulated snowfall eventually compressing into ice. At Logan base camp the ice is over a kilometer thick.)

Donjek helps to dig out last year’s camp
We helped Sian haul a heavy tent from its deep winter interment. She suggested we hike over the glacier to a viewpoint framing Mt. Logan. As we set off she pointed to a gaping cobalt scar part way up the snowfield, “Watch out for the crevasse.” We set course accordingly.

The glacier toe
When we returned Sian boiled water for tea and chatted about the inner workings of glaciers and their role in hydrology, geography and world climate. Icefield Discovery’s headquarters, on Kluane Lake, house the Arctic Institute of North America, which conducts glacier research.
We were in the heart of the world’s largest non-polar ice field. Due to its proximity to the warmer, lower Kluane valley and nearby Whitehorse, the St. Elias region is ideal for ice-core sampling and Arctic-style exploration. Canada’s other, more northerly polar arctic regions are less accessible and more inhospitable.

Don’t forget your sunscreen!
After three sun-drenched hours on the glacier Donjek fired up the prop and we skied off into the airy abyss, down the dirty winding glacial trail and back into the summer greenery of Kluane Lake. It was late in the day when we finally climbed into our RV and started south for Haines, Alaska, three-hundred kilometers away on the coast. Along the way, colorful pink Yukon wildflowers contrasted with the snowy splendor of Kluane’s mountains – as did my beet-red, fried face. I’d forgotten to apply sunscreen.

Yukon wildflowers
Near midnight we arrived in Haines, located in a narrow spit on a scenic Alaskan fjord. As we set up camp a wildlife ballet greeted us. Two brown bears were dancing, performing a grizzly twilight duet. Behind them across the spit, like curtains on a stage, two majestic waterfalls cascaded into the ocean.

A Grizzly midnight waltz
In the morning we awoke with the solstice. Summer had arrived. Our ferry departure was nigh.

A glacier highway
For a final boreal treat we rode our bikes through a coastal rainforest. Dwarfed by thousand-year old giants, we crested a hill in the dappled forest and came upon a large group of Japanese tourists, walking single-file. Each sported a pair of white gloves and what looked like a beekeeper’s hat. As we rode by, one by one they broke into spontaneous applause – golf-clap style. On occasion life is surreal.
Gerry Feehan QC is an award-winning travel writer and photographer. He and his wife Florence live in Red Deer, AB and Kimberley, BC.

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Click below to read Part 1 in Gerry’s 3-part series on the Yukon.

Click below to read Part 2 in Gerry’s 3-part series on the Yukon.
Click here to visit our Travel section and see more of Gerry’s stories.
Business
Looming Air Canada strike highlights need for more competition in the air

From the Fraser Institute
By Alex Whalen and Jake Fuss
Air travelers in Canada are facing a major disruption as Air Canada’s flight attendants threaten strike action. Air Canada says the strike could affect 130,000 passengers per day from coast to coast.
Currently, two airlines control between roughly half and three quarters of all air travel at Canada’s major airports. When either Air Canada or WestJet face a disruption, a large share of Canada’s overall air traffic is affected. In recent polls, a majority of Canadians have said they feel like Canada’s system of air travel is “broken”. Passengers experiencing hardship should cheer for more competition in Canada’s airline industry.
Increased competition has multiple benefits. When one airline inevitably faces a disruption, passengers would have more options to book with other carriers. Competition also tends to lead to lower prices and better service across the board for the customer, as power shifts away from the supplier and toward the consumer.
Unfortunately, Canada’s skies are largely sealed off from competition.
Due to restrictive federal rules known as “cabotage”, foreign airlines may fly to Canadian airports, but they cannot operate routes exclusively within Canada. For example, a foreign airline such as Delta can fly from New York to Toronto, but cannot then fly from Toronto to Montreal. This policy limits choice and competition within Canada.
In contrast, the European Union removed cabotage restrictions for member-states in the 1990s. The result? More competition (including from new low-cost carriers such as Ryanair), a 34 per cent decline in ticket prices (adjusted for inflation), more cross-border routes, and greater flight frequencies. The entry of new low-cost carriers alone helped lower airfares by 20 per cent.
But new entrants into the industry, including low-cost carriers, face significant barriers to entry in Canada, with foreign ownership restrictions compounding Canada’s competition problem. Currently, the Canada Transportation Act caps foreign ownership of Canadian airlines at 49 percent, and no individual foreign investor can own more than 25 percent of the voting shares.
Starting a new airline is obviously a big undertaking, in part because of the large amounts of capital required to acquire a fleet of airplanes. These rules limit the ability of new entrants to raise the necessary investment capital to compete in the Canadian market.
Loosening these restrictions was recently recommended by Canada’s Competition Bureau, which had been tasked with studying the dismal state of competition in Canada’s airline sector. Earlier this year, we authored a study published by the Fraser Institute which reviewed international best practices in airline policy. Based on this review, we recommended Canada remove foreign ownership restrictions, among numerous other recommendations where Canada is offside with peer countries, including the need for lower taxes and fees, changes to Canada’s airport ownership structure, and a more competitive regulatory burden.
The looming Air Canada strike is just the latest in a long list of regular disruptions faced by Canadian air travelers. While such disruptions may never be fully eliminated, government policy is making the situation worse than it needs to be. Cabotage and foreign ownership restrictions should be removed to provide consumers greater choice when it comes to air travel.
Business
Competition Bureau recommends bureaucratic power grab over airline industry

From the Fraser Institute
By Matthew Lau
According to the Competition Bureau’s recent market study of Canada’s airline sector, “Competition delivers major benefits to Canadian travellers. Beyond lower prices, competition drives quality improvements and innovation.” This statement about economic competition is correct. Unfortunately, however, some of the Bureau’s other ideas about economic competition are fundamentally wrong and its poor proposals, which would damage the airline industry, are mixed in with beneficial proposals.
Let’s begin with what the Competition Bureau, a law enforcement agency that reports to the federal government, gets right. Three of the 10 recommendations in the Bureau’s market study relate to opening Canada’s airline sector to international competition. Allowing more international competition is an commonly proposed idea (including in a Fraser Institute study earlier this year) and a good one.
Specifically, the Bureau recommends raising the single-investor foreign ownership limit for Canadian airlines to 49 per cent, allowing 100 per cent foreign ownership for domestic-only Canadian airlines, and working with other countries to remove foreign competition restrictions. The Bureau also recommends reducing regulatory costs for northern operators to support northern and remote market access, and opening government contracts to as many bidders as possible to get better value for taxpayer dollars.
Alas, despite these good ideas for protecting or improving competition, the recommendation at the top of the Competition Bureau’s list is negative, founded on a poor understanding of economic competition, and places far too much faith in the power of government intervention to preserve or improve competition.
“We recommend adopting a system of parallel reviews,” reads the study. “Under this system, both the Commissioner of Competition and the Minister of Transport would conduct independent reviews. Either process could block a transaction, and deals could only proceed if they cleared both reviews.”
In other words, the Competition Bureau proposes the Commission of Competition (the head of the Bureau) have veto power over airline mergers and acquisitions. The stated intention is to disallow anti-competitive mergers or collaborations, but this appears to be a bureaucratic power grab that would block transactions that benefit airline passengers and likely reduce investment in the airline sector.
Speaking to a parliamentary committee last year, a deputy commissioner with the Bureau pointed out that it had opposed three airline mergers in recent years—all of which the federal government finally approved despite the Bureau’s opposition, although with onerous political conditions.
The Competition Bureau laments industry concentration (the degree to which a few large players serve a high proportion of the market), but as a Montreal Economic Institute analysis on airline competition noted, “both economic theory and empirical evidence suggest that it is barriers to entry rather than the size and number of firms in a market that matter.”
Indeed, this was a key economic insight explained by Joseph Schumpeter more than eight decades ago. Industry concentration is not inherently negative and may well result from suppliers and consumers freely making decisions with their own money. Government barriers to entry, which tend to cause industry concentration, is the real problem.
If economies of scale allow large airlines to operate more efficiently than small ones, airline passengers may well be better off when two airlines merge. Or, if an airline is financially distressed, its acquisition by another airline may allow it to continue operations and maintain services. And if airline investors realize they may not be able to eventually exit their investments by selling to other airlines, the long-run effect will be to reduce airline-sector competition and investment.
The Competition Bureau seems to grasp that barriers to entry, not concentration, are the problem by saying its goal “is not always to promote multiple carriers on every route” but rather to promote a competitive environment “where the best airline serves each route but knows it can be replaced.” Yet the Bureau’s hostility towards past airline mergers, as well as value-creating mergers in other industries, suggests it does not apply this thinking consistently and seeks to block even transactions that generate significant economic benefits.
The Bureau’s new report gets some things right, but more bureaucratic power over the airline industry will not help Canadians. The Competition Bureau simply should not have veto power over airline mergers and acquisitions.
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