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I’m going back to Boulder Hut

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BOULDER HUT by Gerry Feehan

I asked the pilot where we were bound.

“Boulder Hut” he said. “Where’s that?” I queried. “Twelve minutes that way,” he said pointing west over Northstar Mountain.

There are no baths or showers at Boulder Hut. Clean-up after a day of strenuous backcountry skiing involves soaping up in a wood-fired sauna, then dumping a bucket of water over one’s head. To my surprise a fellow guest, fit naked – and female – offered to do the pouring. I reluctantly acquiesced. Thereafter, the absence of a proper shower seemed trivial and I decided to forego my complaint to management.

Rosie (indifferently) guards Boulder Hut.

Management at this remote backcountry lodge consists of owners Mark and Sarah Yancey, whose infectious love of Boulder Hut – and the remote lifestyle it entails – is evident from the moment they greet you on the snow-packed heli-pad.

Over the years I’ve acquired all the accoutrements for ski-touring – and on occasion I’ve skinned up from our condo on the Kimberley, BC ski hill – but I had never before toured in the backcountry.

unloading the helicopter

So I was curious when a helicopter touched down at the base of the ski hill on a sunny morning in January. A group of people, ski paraphernalia in tow, was preparing to board. I put down my coffee, stepped off the deck and wandered over. I asked the pilot where they were bound.

“Boulder Hut” he said.

“Where’s that?” I queried.

“Twelve minutes that way,” he said pointing west over Northstar Mountain.

a bluebird day

As I ain’t gettin’ no younger, I determined to be on that chopper before the season ended. And so in mid-March I was soaring over our place, watching my wife Florence waving goodbye from our deck. I hoped it was not a permanent farewell.

Moments later we were up and over the Black Forest on the ski hill’s back side.

Then we were into the rugged roadless world of the Purcell Range. We hugged a ridge of wintry peaks, summited Boulder Pass and descended into a broad forested valley. A tiny dot far below soon resolved into Boulder Hut.

lunch

After a welcoming lunch and safety briefing we strapped on skins and started our first ascent through the thick forest of old-growth spruce that provides Boulder’s gorgeous back-drop. The conditions were fabulous; a storm had just blown through. Fresh powder and sunny, bluebird conditions greeted us.

Drinking water is drawn directly from a small creek that flows year-round.

Every winter the media warns of avalanche danger in the backcountry. At Boulder Hut safety is paramount. With Mark and alpine guide Brent Peters constantly checking conditions – and leading the way through dicey areas – we felt safe and comfortable. When there was any hint of risk they dug a snow profile to check for stability and to ensure some rogue slab wouldn’t ruin our day.

Boulder Hut is remote, quaint and rustic – guests share an open sleeping cabin. If you forget earplugs (and sleeping pills), your repose may be ruined; exhausted snoring skiers make a hell of a racket.

okay, so Sarah does most of the dishes

In the evening guests are responsible for stoking the wood-burning stove. Failure to maintain the fire means for a long cold shivering night. As the only rookie, I was utterly exhausted at the end of each day and slept like a baby – with an assist from earplugs (and a little blue friend).

Drinking water is drawn directly from a small creek that flows year-round. The same stream supplies power via a small hydroelectric plant.

Boulder has no laundry facilities. By the fourth night my ski socks, hanging over the bunk to dry, had taken on a crisp flavourful bouquet – or so my fellow guests noted (I was obliviously comatose).

Boulder’s bathrooms are al fresco

Boulder’s bathrooms are located al fresco; open A-frame jobbies where one can enjoy a panoramic view of the Purcell Mountains whilst engaging in one’s morning constitutional. A sign planted in the snow announces whether the privy is occupied or available.

At Boulder Hut there is no cellphone coverage or internet. And guests are (gasp) expected to help with the dishes after dinner.

a great crew

I’ve been to five-star ski lodges where a cat whisks you to the top of the mountain for each run. At Boulder Hut every turn is earned. Mark calculated that we climbed 14,000 feet (4300 meters) during our stay.

girls just wanna have fun

Sound like a miserable experience?

I had the time of my life. Mark, Sarah, their kids Grace and Alden, mascot Rosie the Great Pyrenees and my seven fascinating fellow guests made for a fabulous, unique experience.

a sliver of winter sun lights Boulder Pass

I’m going back to Boulder this winter – and taking along a few buddies – all rookies.

goodbye Boulder Hut

Now if only I can arrange for a reprise of that fit lady with the water bucket.

Gerry Feehan QC practised law in Red Deer for 27 years before starting his second life as a freelance travel writer and photographer. He says that, while being a lawyer is more remunerative than travel writing, it isn’t nearly as much fun. When not on the road, Gerry and his wife Florence live in Red Deer and Kimberley, BC. Todayville is proud to work with Gerry to re-publish some of his most compelling stories from his vast catalogue developed over more than a decade of travel.

Gerry Feehan

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Looming Air Canada strike highlights need for more competition in the air

Published on

From the Fraser Institute

By Alex Whalen and Jake Fuss

Air travelers in Canada are facing a major disruption as Air Canada’s flight attendants threaten strike action. Air Canada says the strike could affect 130,000 passengers per day from coast to coast.

Currently, two airlines control between roughly half and three quarters of all air travel at Canada’s major airports. When either Air Canada or WestJet face a disruption, a large share of Canada’s overall air traffic is affected. In recent polls, a majority of Canadians have said they feel like Canada’s system of air travel is “broken”. Passengers experiencing hardship should cheer for more competition in Canada’s airline industry.

Increased competition has multiple benefits. When one airline inevitably faces a disruption, passengers would have more options to book with other carriers. Competition also tends to lead to lower prices and better service across the board for the customer, as power shifts away from the supplier and toward the consumer.

Unfortunately, Canada’s skies are largely sealed off from competition.

Due to restrictive federal rules known as “cabotage”, foreign airlines may fly to Canadian airports, but they cannot operate routes exclusively within Canada. For example, a foreign airline such as Delta can fly from New York to Toronto, but cannot then fly from Toronto to Montreal. This policy limits choice and competition within Canada.

In contrast, the European Union removed cabotage restrictions for member-states in the 1990s. The result? More competition (including from new low-cost carriers such as Ryanair), a 34 per cent decline in ticket prices (adjusted for inflation), more cross-border routes, and greater flight frequencies. The entry of new low-cost carriers alone helped lower airfares by 20 per cent.

But new entrants into the industry, including low-cost carriers, face significant barriers to entry in Canada, with foreign ownership restrictions compounding Canada’s competition problem. Currently, the Canada Transportation Act caps foreign ownership of Canadian airlines at 49 percent, and no individual foreign investor can own more than 25 percent of the voting shares.

Starting a new airline is obviously a big undertaking, in part because of the large amounts of capital required to acquire a fleet of airplanes. These rules limit the ability of new entrants to raise the necessary investment capital to compete in the Canadian market.

Loosening these restrictions was recently recommended by Canada’s Competition Bureau, which had been tasked with studying the dismal state of competition in Canada’s airline sector. Earlier this year, we authored a study published by the Fraser Institute which reviewed international best practices in airline policy. Based on this review, we recommended Canada remove foreign ownership restrictions, among numerous other recommendations where Canada is offside with peer countries, including the need for lower taxes and fees, changes to Canada’s airport ownership structure, and a more competitive regulatory burden.

The looming Air Canada strike is just the latest in a long list of regular disruptions faced by Canadian air travelers. While such disruptions may never be fully eliminated, government policy is making the situation worse than it needs to be. Cabotage and foreign ownership restrictions should be removed to provide consumers greater choice when it comes to air travel.

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Competition Bureau recommends bureaucratic power grab over airline industry

Published on

From the Fraser Institute

By Matthew Lau

According to the Competition Bureau’s recent market study of Canada’s airline sector, “Competition delivers major benefits to Canadian travellers. Beyond lower prices, competition drives quality improvements and innovation.” This statement about economic competition is correct. Unfortunately, however, some of the Bureau’s other ideas about economic competition are fundamentally wrong and its poor proposals, which would damage the airline industry, are mixed in with beneficial proposals.

Let’s begin with what the Competition Bureau, a law enforcement agency that reports to the federal government, gets right. Three of the 10 recommendations in the Bureau’s market study relate to opening Canada’s airline sector to international competition. Allowing more international competition is an commonly proposed idea (including in a Fraser Institute study earlier this year) and a good one.

Specifically, the Bureau recommends raising the single-investor foreign ownership limit for Canadian airlines to 49 per cent, allowing 100 per cent foreign ownership for domestic-only Canadian airlines, and working with other countries to remove foreign competition restrictions. The Bureau also recommends reducing regulatory costs for northern operators to support northern and remote market access, and opening government contracts to as many bidders as possible to get better value for taxpayer dollars.

Alas, despite these good ideas for protecting or improving competition, the recommendation at the top of the Competition Bureau’s list is negative, founded on a poor understanding of economic competition, and places far too much faith in the power of government intervention to preserve or improve competition.

“We recommend adopting a system of parallel reviews,” reads the study. “Under this system, both the Commissioner of Competition and the Minister of Transport would conduct independent reviews. Either process could block a transaction, and deals could only proceed if they cleared both reviews.”

In other words, the Competition Bureau proposes the Commission of Competition (the head of the Bureau) have veto power over airline mergers and acquisitions. The stated intention is to disallow anti-competitive mergers or collaborations, but this appears to be a bureaucratic power grab that would block transactions that benefit airline passengers and likely reduce investment in the airline sector.

Speaking to a parliamentary committee last year, a deputy commissioner with the Bureau pointed out that it had opposed three airline mergers in recent years—all of which the federal government finally approved despite the Bureau’s opposition, although with onerous political conditions.

The Competition Bureau laments industry concentration (the degree to which a few large players serve a high proportion of the market), but as a Montreal Economic Institute analysis on airline competition noted, “both economic theory and empirical evidence suggest that it is barriers to entry rather than the size and number of firms in a market that matter.”

Indeed, this was a key economic insight explained by Joseph Schumpeter more than eight decades ago. Industry concentration is not inherently negative and may well result from suppliers and consumers freely making decisions with their own money. Government barriers to entry, which tend to cause industry concentration, is the real problem.

If economies of scale allow large airlines to operate more efficiently than small ones, airline passengers may well be better off when two airlines merge. Or, if an airline is financially distressed, its acquisition by another airline may allow it to continue operations and maintain services. And if airline investors realize they may not be able to eventually exit their investments by selling to other airlines, the long-run effect will be to reduce airline-sector competition and investment.

The Competition Bureau seems to grasp that barriers to entry, not concentration, are the problem by saying its goal “is not always to promote multiple carriers on every route” but rather to promote a competitive environment “where the best airline serves each route but knows it can be replaced.” Yet the Bureau’s hostility towards past airline mergers, as well as value-creating mergers in other industries, suggests it does not apply this thinking consistently and seeks to block even transactions that generate significant economic benefits.

The Bureau’s new report gets some things right, but more bureaucratic power over the airline industry will not help Canadians. The Competition Bureau simply should not have veto power over airline mergers and acquisitions.

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